It is Oct. 30 – or, as many of you think of it – the day before Halloween. 🧙🧛🧟🦸🦹.

We should have one more day of calm weather before the winds and waves pick up a bit. We expect the final 24-36 hours heading to Port Ghalib to be less pleasant.

Had a bit of a scare yesterday. The starboard engine (the only one that works) shut off. My heart and stomach did that thing they do. Luckily, we had several things going in our favor:

1. The seas were almost flat, so we didn’t lose a lot of ground while we were troubleshooting
2. It was daytime
3. We had been down this road before

We first took the opportunity to check the oil. We topped it off. We then added some diesel to the tank because it was low anyway. We also weren’t sure how much we could trust the fuel gauge. (Yes we could have looked at the tank.). After adding some fuel we started the engine again. It ran for about a minute and stopped. We were eerily reminded of the problem we had before when the engine seemed to be starved of fuel.
So, the next (really the first) thing to do was to check the filter on the hose that leads out of the fuel tank. Yep, it was messy. We cleaned it up, put everything back together and have been motoring since then.

I told Michael that our previous problems might have been a blessing in disguise because we knew what to do. He just looked at me.  😉  Now, if the filter hadn’t been the problem, I might be telling a different tale. We are glad it was an easy fix.

My dear friend, Ann Reilly, sent me a BUNCH of different types of puzzles from The New York Times newspaper. She sent them when COVID was at its peak.  Luckily, I never worked on them, so I was able to bring all of them on the boat. I’ve worked on several during these calm days. I love doing them and they help to pass the time enjoyably.

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We are now on Plan C. 👍

As you know, weather forecasts are only good for the upcoming few days. Actually, in Minnesota they might only be good for a few hours. 😆😉 The GRIB files are now showing more wind on the northern end of the Red Sea. Our plan as of today is to stop at Port Ghalib, Egypt. We hope it will be a more pleasant experience than sailors have had in past months. There is a new dude in charge and he is determined to make Port Ghalib friendlier to foreign yachts. Fingers crossed!!

We added 125 liters of diesel to the starboard tank last night. We also topped off the oil on the starboard engine. We are good to go for a few days. We have *lots* of additional diesel, so we have zero concerns about running out before our next stop.

We saw another “boatload” of dolphins 🐬🐬 last night. ❤️❤️ We started and ended the day with them (they actually arrived just after sunrise and just before sunset). We love dolphins (who doesn’t?) so it made our day!!

We are still on the first canister of propane. We use very little. I heat water for coffee in the morning and we use it again to cook dinner.

The temperature reached 95° yesterday. We are looking forward to being farther north with its cooler temps. I might even have to wear something other than my bikini! (Cindy, that is. Michael doesn’t have a bikini.)

 

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We were able to sail for six hours yesterday. It was a treat!

Today, not so much. The Red Sea is as flat as a pancake. Well, it was earlier this morning (6:00ish) and is only slightly less flat now (9:30ish). The lack of a breeze makes the 93° day (with 63 % humidity) feel VERY hot.

We saw dolphins this morning! 😃😁🤣 As I mentioned, the sea was flat and I was taking a picture to prove it. I saw this odd movement in the water. It took a little bit for a dolphin to surface. At first I thought there were just three, but they were swimming to the front of the boat so I followed them. There, they met at least nine other dolphins. I quickly called Michael out of bed. We enjoyed watching the dolphins for a good 15 minutes. It was a great way to start the day!

We have been studying the GRIB files for several days and are currently contemplating going all of the way to the Gulf of Suez before stopping. At this point, the weather looks favorable, both in terms of winds and waves. That would mean that we would not have anyone look at the port engine along the way. We will make the final decision tomorrow.

If we don’t stop halfway as initially planned, our next landing will likely be in Hurghada, Egypt. We found a route from Suakin to it in “World Cruising Routes” by Jimmy Cornell. Jason – former crew member -we brought it with him when he joined us. We entered the waypoints in our chart.

We have been annoyed by the birds on this passage. They get too close, yack their heads off, poop on the boat, and overstay any welcome they might have enjoyed (for 30 seconds).

We will have a lot of cleaning to do inside and out when we get to a marina. We have been reserving the water in the tanks for personal use, not for cleaning.
We just now saw what looked like a couple of tuna jumping out of the water. We wonder if they are feeding.?? Pretty cool. We haven’t seen that before.

I washed my hair today. Always want to keep you apprised.

We will now go back to sweating in the heat, despite the two rotating fans in the saloon. 😀👍😎🙄

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And . . . we are motoring again. But we had 24 glorious hours of sailing. We are happy! 👍😀😆😎. The GRIBs show no more wind between here and Suokin. As I write this (8:28 a.m.), we are 330 nm from Suakin’s anchorage. That means we will arrive overnight Friday/Saturday. As you can imagine, that is not an ideal time to arrive in a Muslim country. We will notify our agent today and follow his directions. (You may recall that we were able to move to the berth on a Saturday in Oman, also a Muslim country.)

And . . . we caught a tuna yesterday – the first one with just the two of us on board. It was quite unlike the other times we fished. The line had only been out for perhaps 15 minutes and we were – sadly – paying it little mind. By the time I perked up, the fish had taken *a lot* of line off the reel. No problem, it simply meant *a lot* of reeling.
A copious amount of reeling later, we had a tuna on the boat. A very pretty fish. As you would have surmised, we had tuna for dinner.

For those of you who are interested in what we are using for fishing gear, we are using a Shimano TLD 2-speed 50 LRSA reel. I think it is pretty.

This was Michael’s first time filleting a saltwater fish. It had also been years since he had filleted a freshwater fish. He muddled through it, though! We have many nice tuna steaks. That said, we both agree that we need to watch some YouTube videos.

We have encountered many ships in the Red sea, two on a “collision course.” Keep in mind that the collision course warning is a bit overly dramatic. Both we and the tanker/cargo ship/big ship have plenty of time to change our course. Typically the ship is the one to change course well in advance since they go a lot faster (two to four times) than we do or can. When I was in between two ships – one coming from behind and one coming towards us with us smack dab in the middle – and because we were off our rhumb line anyway, I was the one who moved. That was at about 6:00 a.m. this morning.

At one point during the day, we heard our boat’s name on the handheld VHF radio.  This seemed rather odd to us as we don’t know anyone on the Red Sea and certainly didn’t expect anyone to hail us.  They hailed us twice.  We realized that it was coming from a navy ship on our port side.  We responded twice but they never replied.  We decided to change our course slightly to starboard in case they thought we were too close.  We did  that and nothing more happened.  After a bit, we went back to our course.  I should note that we pulled out the binoculars to try to see which country the ship was from, but we couldn’t tell.  It shall remain a mystery.

Hope you all have a wonderful day! We might write again tomorrow, depending on what today brings.

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We are sailing!

We left Djibouti at 8:00 a.m. yesterday. We motored about 22 hours. I let the genoa out between 6:00 and 7:00 a.m. this morning during my watch when the winds were strong enough and from the right direction. We are on a heading of 330° and the wind is coming from around 150°. We are making six to seven plus knots. It is a beautiful day!

There are a *lot* of ships traveling in both directions. We decided to follow a path west of the shipping lanes to avoid the busyness.

I have suffered from motion sickness for as long as I can remember. Turning around from the front seat to talk to someone in the backseat of a car will make me sick in short order. For this reason, I have always taken motion sickness medication when on a boat. I am telling you this because I decided to try this passage without taking my meds. So far so good. I wonder if my body (inner ears, actually) is simply so used to the particular rocking of the boat that it has adapted. I am not saying I no longer suffer from motion sickness, but maybe passages will be okay.

For those who have never been on a passage, it is a thing unto itself. There is nowhere to go (I mean, other than where you are going), no one other than those on board to talk to, nothing to do other than what is available on board. Time both slows down and speeds up. It might speed up because you will likely take a nap during the day to make up for the sleep you lost on your night watch. Or it might speed up because you caught a fish or have to fix something. On the other hand, if you don’t have enough to do, boredom can set in quickly as well.

Some people dislike passages. Most sailors never participate in a long passage. Others say they are fine once they get into the groove (likely something that has to happen with each passage if they are few and far between). Since this is our third passage in six weeks, it took no time to adjust. I am already in the groove; heck, I was in the groove by about 8:10 a.m yesterday. 😀👍

Michael is napping. I am the skipper right now. Don’t mess with me. 😉

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We have given up on repairing the port engine in Djibouti.

We will leave tomorrow for Suokin, Sudan (or Suakin, depending on where you are from). We might also – or alternately – stop in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, where they have Yanmar technicians. In any event, we will need to stop somewhere for diesel and water. We will likely need to wait for a weather window to go up the northern half of the Red Sea as well. We expect we will motor the entire way.

In the meantime, we are changing oil, stocking up on diesel, provisioning, defrosting the freezer, etc. Oddly enough, the most elusive item to find has been engine coolant. We have gone to at least six stores. We should have talked to our neighbor first, because he knows exactly where we can buy it.

Speaking of our neighbor, Alejandro is one of three members of the team on the catamaran anchored next to us. He is from Chile. He stopped by our boat in their dinghy a week ago, offering to take us to shore. Each subsequent time he came by we were expecting our agent so we had to decline, until yesterday. He took us to shore yesterday and we realized how much money we have thrown away by not having a dinghy. 

We look forward to not being rookies. . . and most especially to having a dinghy. (Looks like we will be able to buy one in Israel.) We will save money and be more independent.

Alejandro also offered his dinghy and elbow grease to help us clean the exterior of our boat where the tire (serving as a fender) by berth 26 in Oman left a HUGE black mark on our boat. Alejandro is so very kind and generous. ❤️❤️

We learned today that the Seychelles has the worst reputation for charter boat maintenance *in the world.* So, yeah, that might explain all of our problems. We sent an email to our broker asking if he could help us get reimbursed for some of our expenses (due *100 percent* to Sunsail/Moorings Seychelles’ negligence).

So, let us move on since I don’t want this post to be a downer.

You know where we ate yesterday? Burger King! They have a Burger King and a Pizza Hut in a nearby mall. We were hungry and Burger King sounded delicious. I guess that tells you how much we wanted to eat out and ingest some familiar junk food. Alejandro was with us and we had a nice time chatting and learning more about each other’s cultures.

The part of Djibouti that we see is poor and filthy. We know that there are nice areas but – other than the mall – we have not seen them. Many of the folks we encounter chew khat, a leaf that acts like an upper.

We saw a few US Navy sailors leaving the marina (I am using that term loosely) in some kind of small craft yesterday. It was kind of fun seeing them even though all we could do was wave at them.

Seahike is wired for 240 volt outlets so we can’t charge some of our appliances. Michael and Jason installed a 120 volt power inverter that we can turn on when we want to, say, charge our electric toothbrushes. It is very handy. See pics. I know, very exciting. 👍

It is super hot here. I have been using the hair thing I bought at the Renaissance Festival in MN many years ago to keep my hair up. It helps a lot.

Both Michael and I have developed some sort of very itchy rash. We don’t know if it is due to the sun, heat, bugs, or what. We are ready to move on outta here.

We will check in when we are en route up the Red Sea.

 

Hello from Djibouti.

Our port engine is still leaking oil. We had a bolt delivered to a Yanmar engine mechanic to see if they could find an identical one to replace our missing bolt. It took six hours to deliver the bolt to the mechanic and another 22 hours to have three (two of which were the right size) delivered back to our boat.

Unfortunately, adding the missing bolt did not resolve the problem.

A mechanic was supposed to look at the engine yesterday but there was apparently a pressing need from another boat so we never saw the mechanic. Yet another mechanic is supposed to come to the boat this morning. It is 10:08 a.m. as I write this sentence. We think the engine might need to be pulled from the engine compartment before it can be repaired. That gets much more complicated because they have to figure out if they can work on it on our sugar scoop (very little room) or have to take it to land. I have a feeling we are looking at several more days in Djibouti.

Which leads me to my next tale – that of filling our tanks with water. I want to compare two experiences, as it is of interest to me and hopefully to you.

When we were in Oman, you will recall that we were in berth 26, which meant that we were tied to a cement wall. When we needed water, we simply notified our agent, who arranged to have a hose brought to the water spigot located right by our boat. We turned on the spigot, filled our tanks, and washed our boat. The cost was $20 (maybe $30?) USD. We could use the spigot for small amounts of water at other times as well, such as to fill a bucket or two. Easy peasy. Oh, and we could do so during the daytime.

In Djibouti, we again reached out to our agent, who told us we could go to the dock at 1800 hours. For those who don’t know, 1800 hours is 6:00 p.m. For those who also don’t know, it is dark at 1800 hours, or shortly thereafter, in Djibouti which meant that we would be pulling up anchor and traveling to the dock under the cover of night. That is the first difference.

The second difference is that we needed to wait for a spot to open on the dock. Thankfully, two very large ships that were rafted up offered to let us go ahead of them. I cannot imagine how long it would have taken them to fill up with water, so we were and are eternally grateful. In any event, we had to wait for them to back up so we could access the dock.

A third difference: While we were waiting to get to the dock, a Coast Guard boat came by to check on us. Boats cannot come to the dock without permission and they can only come to the dock at 1800 hours. Our agent convinced them that we were legit, so they left.

The fourth difference was the docking experience. I had already tied our four fenders and two dock lines to the port side, so we just needed to get near enough to the dock to toss the lines to the guys on the dock and adjust the fenders as needed to protect the boat. The wind blew us to the dock and all seemed to be going well. That is when we saw the very large cylinder-shaped cement – I am just going to call it a monstrosity – located just off the surface of the water near our stern. Thankfully one fender was just low enough to “fend it off” and we quickly moved the other fender next to it and lowered both to better protect the boat. The bow end of the boat was a completely different story. At that end, there were no cement structures near the water. The only part of the dock that could damage the boat was higher up. Luckily, one of the fenders I had placed near the bow protected it.

Fifth difference: Once we were safely secured to the dock, Michael and Ahssan (our agent) had to take our documents to the port authority because they require paper documents, not electronic. That took about 15 minutes. I stayed on the boat and played Sudoku while sitting on the trampoline. One of the men who stayed near the boat tried to make conversation with me but we quickly realized that we did not speak the same language. Several other men smiled and waved as they walked by. The dock was rather busy. I have yet to see a female on a dock in either Oman or Djibouti.

Okay, so they came back to the boat. We then waited approximately 30 more minutes (I don’t really know how long each gap was as I wasn’t timing) for someone to bring the hose that would deliver the water. I made our dinner while we were waiting since it was clear that we were going to get back to our anchorage well after dinner time. (The entire experience from pulling up anchor to anchoring again was about two hours.)

Once the hose was hooked up, filling the tanks took a matter of minutes. Michael also hosed off the top of the boat for good measure in an attempt to rid it of some of the bird poop.

Here’s the most exciting part of the story and the sixth difference: leaving the dock. Remember that we have one working engine and it is on the starboard side, not in the middle. Monohulls also have only one engine but it is in the middle. So, we were handicapped by having only one off-center engine . . . with prop walk. In addition, we had a very big boat behind us now and a very sturdy and very hard dock to the left of us and another very sturdy and hard side of the dock about 8-10 meters in front of us. We also had a boat to our starboard side, perpendicular to our boat. In short, a very tight spot.

Thankfully, Ahssan and I were on the boat with fenders and our arms and legs. There were also three men on the dock to assist. We started off okay by pushing away from the dock but immediately realized that our maneuverability was perhaps even worse than expected. Also, the wind wanted to push us back to the dock (cement, hard, big, etc.), and the prop walk assisted the wind. In short, getting away from the dock proved to be problematic. Somehow, with enough pushing, motoring, and steering, we made some progress, but the main progress was forward motion with just a tad to starboard. Michael was trying everything possible to get the boat to move the way he wanted it to move. Forwards, backwards, rev the engine, put it in neutral, move the wheel, etc. At one point, the stern almost ran into the part of the dock that had originally been in front of us. Again, bodies, fenders, pushing, etc. As the boat finally agreed to turn to starboard away from the dock we ran the risk of running into the boat that had been perpendicular to us at the intersecting dock. We missed it by about a foot.

Once truly clear of the dock(s), we motored between both moving and anchored boats back to our anchorage. Michael had placed a waypoint on our chart (a VERY good idea) to help us find it in the dark. We made it safely, of course, or I wouldn’t be writing this.

The other thing of mild interest was the condition of our anchor chain as we raised the anchor to go to the dock. The seabed here is clearly very muddy, and much of the mud decided to adhere to the anchor rode.

So that is pretty much yesterday’s exciting story. Pictures here:

We are in Djibouti. At anchor. With no dinghy. = stuck on ⛵. (😜)

We have a bit of cabin fever at this point. We haven’t been off the boat to do anything fun since we left the Seychelles on Sept. 14. ☹️☹️ This is definitely the boring part of our travels!

So we have new house batteries and run the generator much much much less than we did before. This is very good.

As for the engine, Michael and I have done what we can to try to find the source of the oil leak. It is pretty tricky since it only leaks when we run the engines at a “cruising” speed (it isn’t in gear – we just run up the rpms) and even then we can’t tell where the leak is.

We found a spot missing a bolt and one missing a screw on the engine. Hmmm. . . We are wondering if this particular missing screw and this particular missing bolt might be causing the problem. A guy who supposedly knows his way around Yanmar engines is going to look at it. We sure hope: 1) he comes tomorrow, and 2) he can fix the problem.

We’ve done some laundry and continued to embrace our regular “hobbies” to pass the time. I personally find reading on the trampoline after the sun sets to be the most enjoyable. It is cool, there is always a breeze, and it is most pleasant.

On our list before we leave:

1. Fill the tanks and jerry cans (and buy more of them) with diesel
2. Fill the water tanks
3. Buy a cooler to store food while we defrost the heavily-encrusted-with-ice freezer
4. Provision (buy food and potable beverages)
5. Buy engine fluids
6. Get rid of our trash/garbage
7. Consume more adult beverages 🍷🍺🥂🥃🍸🍹 (our first opportunity since we left the Seychelles)

But first, the engine. . . 🤞🤞🤞🤞

We will post again when we know something.

We arrived in Djibouti just after sunrise. We were met by two members of the coast guard who did not speak English (not surprised). We used hand signals to communicate. It seemed that they were trying to tell us where to anchor so we did what they “said.”

We then contacted our agent. He turned out to be a very young man. He is amazing! He tried to help us find a dinghy (to no avail) and he found a guy who can sell us the three house batteries we need. We ended up buying batteries, but they are the wrong batteries for the boat. They are a temporary solution until we can buy the correct batteries. Still hoping the agent (Ahssan) can put us in touch with a Yanmar diesel engine repair dude.

But this is what sold me on Ahssan: While we were riding in the car with one of many of his friends who was happy to drive us where we needed to go, he asked if we wanted a cold beer. YES!! was our reply. (Okay, maybe the enthusiasm came from me.) We also purchased two bottles of wine and one of vodka. It might be said that we were thirsty. Okay, Cindy was thirsty. 😆

We do not know how long we will be here. We will have new house batteries but the port engine needs some serious TLC. The guy who provided the batteries is also going to look at the fridge/freezer.

We met three guys from another boat while we were waiting for our visas. Well, two guys from the boat and a guy who is going to hitch a ride with them part of the way up the Red Sea. The “hitch a ride” guy has been in Djibouti three months waiting to find a boat heading in his direction. We only talked with him for a short time but we learned that he is an amazing adventurer! He started in South Africa and (I think) hiked his way up the continent. At some point he found himself in Djibouti. He is going to sail with two guys from the Netherlands (at least one of whom thinks he is a bit daft) and be let off somewhere in the Red Sea (I don’t recall where). He then plans to buy a kayak and kayak to the continent and buy a camel to take him on the next leg of his journey.

Anywho, this is part of what I love about our retirement plans: Meeting interesting people and having new and interesting (although not always pleasant) experiences.

Never look back. Well, I mean, unless you want to learn from it.  Then look back.

 

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My note about this passage being uneventful was premature. Two days ago, in midafternoon, the oil light for the port motor started beeping. Having checked the oil that morning, this seemed odd. We turned off the engine and looked inside the engine compartment.

What we saw was lots and lots of oil. Sprayed, on the floor, in the bilge, all over. So that was the end of the port engine for this passage.

You might also remember my having mentioned that Michael and I thought we had filled the starboard engine’s fuel tank but it was showing 3/4 full the last time we looked at it. (I don’t even remember why we checked it.) Well, when we started the starboard engine (after a brief funeral for the port engine), we saw that the fuel tank was only *half* full.

Now this made no sense at all because we hadn’t had leakage problems before. It also made us feel horrible about dumping that much fuel into the water. In any event, we did a couple of things and decided to motor until the starboard tank was pretty low. If the leak seemed to continue at the same rate we were going to revert to the jerry can with two hoses method we had perfected during our first passage. 👍

What we did must have made an impact because the leak appears to have stopped. We decided it was safe to add three jerry cans of diesel to the tank yesterday. We will likely add more to get us to Djibouti.

We are happy that we are toting a lot of diesel.

Anywho . . . Michael and I spent a fair amount of time pumping the liquid out of the engine compartment. I went down into the engine compartment with the fluid extractor and Michael pumped the handle. We collected *five liters* of liquid. It appears that the engine is completely dry of oil. One of our contacts suspects a blown gasket.

What’s worse (?!) is that I made the mistake of wearing one of my favorite pairs of athletic shorts into the compartment. I clearly was NOT thinking! They now have an oil stain covering the entire right side on the back. 😭😭. I will still wear them. They are too cool to toss.

As of now, we are about 84 nm away from Djibouti. We might have to cut back our speed so we arrive after the sun rises. We already have the coordinates for the anchorage and have been in contact with our agent for about a week. We hope to find a slip in a marina cuz we still don’t have a dinghy. (Also 😭😭.).

We also hope to buy three new house batteries and get the engine looked at (again) and the leak. We might end up buying a new port engine.

We are going to need to buy a new refrigerator/freezer unit as well. In my opinion that cannot happen soon enough.

We would love to be able to find a used dinghy in Djibouti, but our hopes are not high.
So, we have a lot to do in Djibouti. I would love to go scuba diving and do some sightseeing.

In the meantime, we continued to motor in the Internationally Recommended Transit Corridor (until recently – we have now exited it). There must be some currents because we were changing our heading from 233° to 255° and all things in between overnight. The wind never changed directions and the seas were pretty steady.

At about noon today a military plane flew overhead. They hailed us on channel 16 and asked us to identify ourselves. We did (boat and Captain’s name). That was that.
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