Our next stop was Lagos. We first walked by the fortress. It was built in the 17th century, as one of the main components of a system of maritime fortifications to defend the city, then headquarters of the military government of the Algarve. Significant restoration work has been carried out over the years and the fort is considered to be one of the best-preserved 17th century fortifications in the Algarve region.
Lagos Fortress
To the coast! The coastal path is nice because it takes various forms (dirt, boardwalk) and provides numerous opportunities to get a birds eye view or go down to the water. And the rock formations all along the way . . . stupendous!
“Sintra was, in the 19th century, one of the first cradles of romantic architecture in Europe. Its own climate and the consequent nature attracted the eyes of those who, sensitized by the landscape, dared to retouch it with a stunning architecture in an edenic harmony conducive to the contemplation of the beautiful and sublime.
It is in this picturesque setting that we find at the outskirts of Sintra historic center, the Quinta da Regaleira. Designed and built in the late 1800s, it reflects the sensibility and cultural, philosophical and scientific interests of the principal owner, António Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro (1848-1920), together with the virtuosity of the Italian architect and scenographer Luigi Manini (1848-1936). The culture and creativity of these two personalities resulted in an eclectic-revivalist architectural ensemble, with a particular focus on the Manueline, Renaissance, Medieval and Classical styles.”
“With the aid of Italian architect Luigi Manini, Carvalho Monteiro transformed the 4 hectare estate into a palace surrounded by lush gardens, lakes, caves, and enigmatic constructions, places that hide alchemical meanings such as those evoked by Freemasonry, the Templars, and the Rose-cross. He shapes the space with mixed lines, evoking Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Manueline architecture.
Quinta da Regaleira must be experienced. It is not enough to hear about its memory, landscape and mysteries. You must get to know the estate, contemplate the scenery among the gardens and constructions, admire the Palace, a true philosophical mansion of alchemical inspiration, and walk through the exotic park and feel its spirit.”
I was uber excited for our day trip! I’d seen pictures of the places we planned to visit and could hardly wait to see them in person. It was going to be a really full day! So I had to break it into two posts.
It is super easy to get to Sintra from Lisbon as trains leave from Rossio station on a regular basis.
“The National Palace of Pena stands out as the renowned jewel in the crown of the Sintra Hills. The surrounding park, in close harmony with the magical character of the palace, triggers emotions of mystery and discovery. In its nooks and corners, our gaze gets lost amongst its charms.
The coloured tones of the palace, the pinnacle of Romanticism in Portugal and the eternal legacy of Ferdinand II, the King-Artist, opens the doors to the imagination of all those who cross its threshold, with the infinite shades of green painting the surrounding park establishing an idyllic scenario, frequently hidden under the veil of the mists that characterise the Sintra Hills. As if having stepped out of a fairy tale, this has been the place of dreams for all the generations who have passed here and gazed upon its magnificence.”
It was time to drive south. We decided to break up the drive to Lisbon by stopping in Aveiro.
Aveiro, also known as the “Venice of Portugal,” is a popular tourist destination located along Portugal’s Silver Coast. It is famed for its canals, Nouveau architecture and colorfully painted Moliceiros boats. Of course we took a boat ride through the canals! We had a tour guide, but I had trouble hearing him, so I just enjoyed the views.
The first thing we saw when crossing the pedestrian bridge into town were the tour boats.
Then what we would call “main street.”
We made a reservation and were assigned to this pretty boat:
After our fantastic visit to Porto, we were now looking forward to a seeing the scenic interior. We followed a route recommended by several folks in blogs or on travel sites. The round trip was under four hours, so we figured we would have plenty of time to stop along the way. (Little did we know that there were hardly any pull-offs/scenic overlooks – or even shoulders – on this entire route! I cannot count the number of times I wanted to stop and take a picture and/or enjoy the view, but was prevented from doing so because it would have meant stopping in the middle of the winding road.)
Our route:
Okay, now that I’ve vented about the lack of scenic overlooks or shoulders, I will tell you that this was a beautiful drive. We can’t show you just how beautiful it was due to said issue and rant, but we have several pictures to share. We’ll start with Peso de Régua.
Peso de RéguaDitto
The two pictures below were taken at Régua Dam, which is a concrete gravity dam on the Douro, where the river forms the border line between the districts of Vila Real and Viseu. It is also a lock.
Régua dam lockRégua dam lock
The picture on the left below is of one “cruise ship” entering the lock while the other waits.
Régua dam lockBetween townsOn the routeOn the routeNear PinhãoNear PinhãoNear PinhãoNear Pinhão
The picture on the left below is of the actual town of Pinhão. It is a lovely town in the heart of Port wine country at the confluence of the Douro and Pinhão rivers.
PinhãoNear PinhãoNear PinhãoNear Pinhão
That was pretty much if for August 1st.
We chilled a bit the morning of the 2nd. I went to the coffee shop I’d found the day before. Our only “organized” plan for this day was to take a “Luxury Yacht Tour of the 6 Bridges and Douro Estuary.” Yes, by boat. I know, we live on a boat, but still. We thought it would be fun to see Porto and Gaia and such from the water. This is a description of the tour:
“Enjoy a memorable experience on a glamorous yacht, calmly navigating the Douro River while contemplating the main sights of the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. Navigation is always carried out smoothly, with short breaks, so that you can contemplate the main sights and take photo sessions to later remember your trip. You can listen to your favorite music playlist on board by connecting your mobile phone via Bluetooth to our Marshall speaker. After viewing the six iconic bridges that connect the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, it’s time to sail towards the mouth of the Douro River and observe the beautiful natural landscape of the Douro Estuary.”
The six bridges to which this refers are: — Arrábida Bridge — D. Luís I Bridge — Infante Bridge — Maria Pia Bridge — São João Bridge — Freixo Bridge
I’d neglected to take a picture of this church – Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, or Church of Saint Ildefonso – located across the street from our hotel before, so here it is. This granite church built in Baroque style is decorated with over 11,000 classic blue and white azulejos. The tiles are painted depicting the life of Saint Ildefonso and stories from the Gospels.
Here are some pictures of our walk to the marina where the boat was waiting for us.
The huge building pictured on the right below is the Alfandega Congress Center. In other words, a conference center. It is a former-customs house.
Conference centermarina
We were the only ones who’d made it to the boat. Another group had reservations but were held up due to some transportation issues. So it was just the couple who owned the yacht, their dog, and us! We got comfy, Michael with a glass of wine and I with a tonic water. It was a nice yacht and the couple who owned it were delightful. The music coming out of the speakers was really nice. All good!
And we’re off!
Arrábida BridgePorto Duck
You will recognize the picture on the left-hand side below as the D. Luís I Bridge. You can see one of the cable cars we referenced in a previous post in the right-hand picture below. We saw these before, but now from the water.
D. Luís I Bridge
Pictured on the left-hand side below, are the old city walls and the end of the D. Luis I Bridge.
Infante Bridge
The next two bridges are very close together. They are the Maria Pia Bridge and the São João Bridge.
Maria Pia BridgeSão João Bridge
We are approaching the sixth bridge, Freixo Bridge. Now it was time to turn around and enjoy the same views on the return trip.
Freixo Bridge
Pictured below on the left is the Pestana Paláciodo Freixo. It is a 5-star hotel located in an 18th century palace. I would love to stay there! Given the good prices one can get in Portugal, we could afford to stay for one night if we counted it as a splurge.
We enjoyed our two-hour sail.
We saw the Porto Duck out of the water on our walk to the hotel. 🙂
It was time for our next road trip. Seahike would again stay behind at the marina and wait patiently for our return.
We spent most of the 30th driving to Porto. When we arrived, we did our level best to follow Google Map’s directions to the hotel’s parking garage. Maps told us to take a particular road, but we never saw that particular road so we had to take a circular drive around a few blocks to get back to that area in an attempt to find it on the next go-round.
We could have walked the route in 10 minutes tops. It took 40 minutes of driving time. This is why the title of this post indicates that Porto is not a fun place to drive.
Long story short, we found the road on the second pass. Everything we visited in Porto on the 31st was within walking distance so the car stayed happily in the garage.
The first stop the next day was the Chapel of the Souls (Capela das Almas in Spanish), a.k.a. Saint Catarina Catholic Church.
From https://www.locationscout.net/portugal/42353-church-capela-das-almas-porto: “The chapel is often referred to as the most beautiful in Portugal. This is because of the elaborate blue tiles of the church. Usually only individual strips and facade parts are designed in this way. In the case of the Almas chapel, however, it is the entire facade. There are 15,947 of them in total, all of which depict scenes of various saints. The most common are scenes from the life and death of Francis of Assisi and the Virgin Catherine.
Although the church was built in the 18th century, these elaborate wall tiles were added much later, in 1929. It was the artist Eduardo Leite who accomplished this feat and painted the tiles in the original 18th century style.”
We decided to spend a couple of weeks on Seahike in La Línea de la Concepción, often referred to simply as La Línea. I don’t know if I explained what it is before, so I will now. It is a municipality of Spain belonging to the province of Cádiz, Andalusia. The city lies on the sandy isthmus which is part of the eastern flank of the Bay of Gibraltar, and abuts the Gibraltar–Spain border to the south. That is why we can easily walk to Gibraltar from Spain and back again. 🙂
We decided to take two weeks off for a few reasons. One is that we planned to take a cruise with ports of call in Norway. (We’d hoped to sail to Norway, but we knew it was super unlikely. And as you’ve seen, we didn’t even get Seahike to the UK!) Two of Michael’s sisters decided to join us on the cruise (yay!), so we had to find a date that would work for all of us. We landed on August 15-25. This left us with a big gap of time.
Michael and I also wanted to take a road trip to Portugal before the cruise. And we wanted some down time in La Línea after our long trip to the UK and Ireland.
Thus, we ended up with two weeks to rest and recuperate. And take some pictures of La Línea and the Rock on my runs.
SehikeThe rockThe bay
But wait, we don’t need two whole weeks to rest! Let’s take a two-day trip to Ceuta!
We started the day as dietitians around the world recommend: we ate breakfast. We arrived about a minute after the establishment stopped serving breakfast, but they said they’d make it for us anyway. How nice! The food was good and it was such a cute place!
Yum!The door to the W.C. 🙂 🙂
We had a few hours to ourselves before we had to return the car and catch the plane, so we decided to walk the Londonderry Derry Walls. Derry-Londonderry has the most complete circuit of historic walls of any town or city in Ireland. They stand up to 26 feet (8 meters) high, measure almost one mile around and were constructed between 1613 and 1618.
We have almost completed our loop of the island and are back in Northern Ireland.
Giant’s Causeway Little did we know just how amazing (did I see “spectacular” and “dramatic” in the title of this post?) today was going to be! These aren’t just beautiful cliffs, the Giant’s Causeway and Causeway Coast is a spectacular area of global geological importance on the sea coast at the edge of the Antrim plateau in Northern Ireland. More from the source (https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/369/) that provided the previous sentence:
“The most characteristic and unique feature of the site is the exposure of some 40,000 large, regularly shaped polygonal columns of basalt in perfect horizontal sections, forming a pavement. This dramatic sight has inspired legends of giants striding over the sea to Scotland. Celebrated in the arts and in science, it has been a visitor attraction for at least 300 years and has come to be regarded as a symbol for Northern Ireland.
The property’s accessible array of curious geological exposures and polygonal columnar formations formed around 60 million years ago make it a ‘classic locality’ for the study of basaltic volcanism. The features of the Giant’s Causeway and Causeway Coast site and in particular the strata exposed in the cliff faces, have been key to shaping the understanding of the sequences of activity in the Earth’s geological history.”
The cliffs just keep on coming! We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and were overwhelmed with the beauty of the Cliffs of Moher. It is definitely a “don’t miss” site in Ireland! Here’s a bit of information about the cliffs.
At the center of the Wild Atlantic Way in County Clare are the stunning Cliffs of Moher. Stretching out into the mist along the North Clare coastline, the Cliffs of Moher are jaw-droppingly beautiful. Their sheer drop into the heaving Atlantic ocean is a well known haven for seabirds. Waves crash below, seabirds whirl above and paths wind along the cliff-edge between villages with photo opportunities all the way.
The Cliffs of Moher are one of the most outstanding coastal features of Ireland. Rising slowly from Doolin village they ascend to over 700 feet (213 meters) boasting some of the most breathtaking scenery in Ireland. They have become one of Ireland’s premier tourist attractions and a must see for many people visiting Ireland.
They run for about 9 miles (14 kilometers). At their southern end, they rise 390 feet (120 meters) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, 5 miles (8 kilometers) to the north, they reach their maximum height of 702 feet (214 meters) just north of O’Brien’s Tower, a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs, built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien, then continue at lower heights.
