If you have been following this blog at all, you know that I love to visit gardens, especially botanical gardens. Caroline and Jim were also eager to see it. And, happily, the restaurant next door had excellent food for lunch after the visit! (Caroline’s favorite meal in Martinique, in fact.)

Jardin de Balata (aka Botanical Garden)

Here are some of the things said about the garden:

One of Martinique’s most famous sites, the Balata Gardens will let you know why this is “the Isle of Flowers.” This private botanical garden just outside Fort-de-France is home to a staggering number of begonias, bromeliads, bamboo and about 300 different types of palm trees.

The Balata Garden is the image of an earthly paradise. Bamboos crackling in the wind, dancing hummingbirds, shimmering tropical flowers, a refreshing pond, surprising exotic leaves, shady hills and views of the sea… Nothing is missing from this enchanting place of delights, colors and fragrances.

History of the garden of Balata: the passion of a horticulturist

The genesis of the park lies in the will and passion of one man: Jean-Philippe Thoze. Years ago, he decided to follow in the footsteps of his childhood and found his grandparents’ large family home. The land was fallow, abandoned to the jungle. A talented horticulturist, he worked from 1982 to create a tropical garden around his typically Creole family home. Passionate about botany, he travels the world to bring plants from distant countries to this garden.

All the know-how of the landscape gardener is felt here, in this bucolic Elysium, which he decided to open to the public in 1986. Since then, it has been an undeniable success. The walk through this true botanical heritage enchants visitors.

A visit to the garden: a plant treasure to discover

The public is welcomed in a house with typical Creole architecture. Inside, you will discover a careful decoration and traditional furniture of the Antilles.

Once outside, the walk takes place among the flowers and trees: hibiscus, exotic water lilies, royal palms, wild orchids, balisiers… Martinique, baptized “the island of flowers,” has never been so well named. More than 3000 species of tropical plants flourish here, to the delight of nature lovers. The diversity of plants seems infinite.

The slightly undulating relief makes us discover, at each hill, a new point of view on distant flowers. Numerous paths crisscross the park, often in the shade of trees in an exotic nature. Information panels scattered throughout the park allow you to learn more about the species of trees and plants. The texts are educational and will not fail to surprise you!

In the Balata garden, all paths lead to the pond. And what a pond! It seems to be the highlight of the visit. Located below the property, the pond is surrounded by magnificent trees. It is studded with lotuses and large goldfish.

And there are suspended bridges as well!

That said, let’s see what it looks like!

Let’s start with the view of Mount Pele in the distance. So gorgeous! But more about that mountain later.

Now, the garden.

Bridges (only two people at a time, please!) and what not to do on the bridges. 🙂

The tree below caught my attention because of the thorns all over the bark. This is a Kapok tree. It is said that voodoo wizards use the trunk thorns to cast spells on somebody. And, for real now (I mean, unless you believe the voodoo story), the silky fibers that disperse the seeds are too small for weaving but make great stuffing for bedding and life preservers. Soaps can be made from the oils in the seeds. Other parts of the giant tree are used as medicines. The tree is also used in the construction of canoes.

The plans on the left hand side below look to me like flowers growing out of rocks. But that isn’t what is happening.

The bamboo trees were huge! Not just tall, but wide. They are Dendrocalamus: undoubtedly the most spectacular species of tropical bamboo. It is the biggest bamboo in the world, the stem can sometimes reach a height of 30 meters. Common names of this bamboo include male bamboo, solid bamboo, and Calcutta bamboo.

Check out the next two pictures. This is a tree. I presume the trunk? Crazy!

I hope you enjoyed your visit to the garden. Now it was time (after lunch) to hike to another waterfall. Time to cool off again!

Saut du Gendarme waterfall

The hike of the waterfall “Saut du Gendarme” is one of the easiest waterfalls to do in Martinique. The trail is very well laid out, a very good place for young and old. The waterfall is one of the most sublime places in Martinique. The blue-green water is of excellent quality, making swimming very pleasant. 

One site says no swimming is allowed and the other says swimming is pleasant. Whatever. . . we went swimming!

Maison du Volcan (Volcano House)

We were driving around Morne-Rouge after visiting the waterfall and happened upon this house. Of course we went in! The woman who worked there told us that they had several videos with closed captions in English.

Here’s a brief write-up describing the house:

In Martinique, the “Volcano House,” or Maison des Volcans, located in Morne-Rouge,  is a specialized information and documentation center dedicated to the volcanoes of Martinique and the Caribbean arc, including Mount Pelée, and its history and activity. 

Here’s a more detailed look:

Focus:
The Maison des Volcans offers a comprehensive exploration of Martinique’s volcanoes, particularly Mount Pelée, and the Caribbean volcanic arc. 

Content:

• Educational panels and a 45-minute projection explain the formation and activity of the Caribbean arc volcanoes. 
• It includes a rich petrographic collection of rocks and sands from the island, the Caribbean, and the world. 
• A large model of Mount Pelée and its environment provides insights into the volcano’s topography. 
• Films on the 1902 eruption and the geology of the West Indies, as well as temporary exhibitions on plate tectonics, the eruptions of Mount Pelée, and great volcanologists, are also featured. 
  
  Historical Context:
  The museum also delves into the 1902 eruption of Mount Pelée, which devastated the city of Saint-Pierre, and the Saint-Pierre disaster. 
  
  Memorial of the 1902 Catastrophe:
  There is also a separate memorial dedicated to the 1902 catastrophe, located on the Esnotz Battery, which was built in 1694 to defend the town of St Pierre. 
  
  UNESCO World Heritage Site:
  The volcanoes and forests of Mount Pelée and the pitons of northern Martinique were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site on September 16, 2023. 
  
  Mount Pelée:
  Mount Pelée is a volcano on the island of Martinique, known for its 1902 eruption, which killed almost 30,000 people. 

My take on this visit: It was very interesting and also shocking and sad. The entire population of Saint-Pierre died in a few seconds when Mount Pelée erupted. See the link above to read more about the Saint-Pierre disaster.

The Tombolo of Sainte-Marie (March 22nd)

A tombolo is a sandy or shingle isthmus. It is a deposition landform by which an island becomes attached to the mainland by a narrow piece of land such as a spit or bar. Once attached, the island is then known as a tied island.

Here are a few descriptions of the Tombolo of Sainte-Marie.

If there is one curiosity of nature you must see in Martinique, it has to be the Tombolo. This strip of land of about 200 meters long only appears for a few weeks of the year, generally between January and April. You can walk across the sea via it to the small island and protected nature reserve of Îlet Sainte-Marie. The scenery is breathtaking and the experience one-of-a-kind.

Located on the northeast coast of Martinique, the Tombolo of Sainte-Marie is intriguing… The tombolo is a small strip of sand that connects the islet Sainte-Marie, a protected nature reserve, to the rest of the island. With the swell of the Atlantic Ocean, you can only access the peninsula on foot from January to April. (The rest of the year, it is unfortunately missed for you because the sandy strip is underwater, and it is not possible to cross it.) You will almost believe you are walking on the water, on this sandbank lost in the middle of the ocean. It’s quite impressive! Once on the other side, enjoy a breathtaking view and the trails that the islet offers.

In early spring, the trade winds slacken and change direction, causing the gradual erosion of Sainte Marie tombolo. Before attempting to cross the tombolo, check with the Tourist Office who will tell you if it is passable at this time of year. Island access will depend on the date of your visit, whether the site is open to the public and the tide times. If the conditions are right, you can prepare yourself for the walk across. Wear sandals or take a bag in which to transport your shoes as you will cross the tombolo barefoot. Also remember to bring a backpack with a bottle of water for hydration and a towel to dry your feet before setting off to explore the island and, if you wish, its famous hiking trail. So, are you ready to adventure across the sea to Îlet Sainte-Marie?

It really was quite fun walking across the strip of sand in our bare feet. The water ebbed and flowed, but never got deep.

Beach before you get to the Tombolo:

Now, the Tombolo with the Îlet Sainte-Marie on the other side:

You can see the movement of the water in the pictures:

After you cross the Tombolo, there is a boardwalk, and paths on both hills.

Views from the paths.

At first I thought this was a sundial, but it is showing the direction of several locations around the world, including New York, USA and Canada (which were in the same circle).

There are some old tracks (like railroad tracks) that lead nowhere.

Jim, telling me to wait for him to suck in his gut before I took a picture. 🙂 🙂 🙂 He is super funny!

Now it was time to relax at the beach. We opted to go to Plage de Madiana Beach. It was a lovely beach with lots of trees and much-needed shade. (A couple of us were a big pink from the sun.) I was so busy relaxing after my swim that this is the only picture I took. My view was fabulous!

More fun with Caroline and Jim in Martinique in the next post! We aren’t done with Martinique yet!!