We sailed overnight from Tangier to Rabat. We had to time our arrival with high tide, as the entrance to the bay isn’t navigable at low tide. We arrived a couple of hours early so we drifted until the time was right.

We stayed in a marina in Rabat because we planned to take the train to Marrakech from Rabat.

Entering and going up the Bou Regreg river to the marina:

We had plenty of time to sightsee on the 2nd. We visited the following:
Kasbah of the Udayas
Andalusian Gardens
Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Hassan Tower

Here is a route, but we didn’t follow it in this order. We started at the marina, walked to the Kasbah and worked our way back to the marina.

But first, a walk through town to the first attraction:

Kasbah of the Udayas

The Kasbah is located on a hill at the mouth of the Bou Regreg opposite Salé, and adjacent to the Medina quarter of Rabat. It is listed, along with other sites in Rabat, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most of the remains of the Kasbah date back to the 12th century. The Oudaya Kasbah was originally built in the 12th century and although it has been destroyed several times, it was rebuilt again. In the era of the Alawites, the Kasbah witnessed several developments such as the construction of the Amiri Palace and some military installations which played an important role in protecting the Kasbah. Many facilities of the Kasbah, especially the court and the prison, played a pivotal role throughout history. 

The Kasbah has been home to many Andalusian immigrants, Arab tribes, and some of the most powerful sultans of Morocco. The most dramatic entry to the Oudaya Kasbah is through the enormous Almohad gate, called Bab Oudaia. Built-in 1195, its location, where it faces the heart of the city and just outside the original palace, made it more ceremonial than defensive. The gateway is built of dressed stones and is decorated with a series of carved arches which makes it one of the jewels of Almohad art.

From the ocean side, you can enjoy superb panoramic views over Salé and the Bou Regreg Estuary. The returnees from Andalusia played an important role in influencing the trait of the Kasbah; it can be seen in the architecture and the garden that mimics those in Andalusia. 

Andalusian Gardens

The Andalusian Gardens are a nature area with palm trees, cypresses, plane trees, orange and lemon trees, laurels, jasmine, and some flowers that are only found in this area of the world. All in all, there is a total of about 650 varieties of flora. The area was first established during the French colonial period when the fruit trees and bougainvillea were planted. The garden is structured with multi-level terraces descending to the river. The gardens are known as a peaceful refuge from the noise of the city. The landmark is listed by UNESCO as one of the most valuable botanical gardens in the world. Several species of birds, storks, and cats live there as well. The garden is located in the northern area of the city and is close to the Kasbah of Oudaya.

Time to walk to our next destination. Here is a picture of a pretty ceiling along a typical street filled with stores on each side.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Hassan Tower

These structures are right next to each other, so I will share a bit of info about each then post pictures.

The Mohammad V Mausoleum is not only a perfectly preserved example of the Alaouite dynasty’s architectural style, but it is the final resting place of three significant members of the royal family. King Hassan II commissioned the construction of the Mausoleum of Mohammad V for his late father, Mohammad V, in 1962. Construction of the Mohammad V Mausoleum was completed in 1971. Sultan Mohammad V ruled over Morocco for two terms. The first was from the year 1927 to 1953 and again from 1957 to the year 1961. He is remembered and noted for his efforts in the fight for Morocco’s independence. Both his sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah, are buried alongside him. It took the hard work of approximately four hundred men to build and complete the mausoleum that now stands as an architectural and historical masterpiece.

To the west, across from the mausoleum and at the southwestern corner of the ancient mosque, is another structure on an elevated platform: a rectangular open-air pavilion with rows of arches which was designed as a museum for the Alaouite dynasty. The space between these two structures is filled by an accompanying mosque which was also built as part of the complex. The mosque is situated at a lower level in order to not obstruct the view of the other two structures. 

Hassan Tower
The Hassan Tower is considered as the symbol of Rabat, it is one of the most famous sites of the kingdom. The structure’s existence speaks to the grand ambitions of the Almohad Caliphate.

The tower, which was started in 1195, was designed to be the biggest minaret in the world. When Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour passed away in 1199, work on the mosque came to an end. The tower didn’t quite achieve its projected 86 m height; it barely rose to 44 m. With just the beginnings of 200 columns and numerous walls, the remainder of the mosque was likewise left unfinished. The red sandstone tower, combined with the mosque’s ruins and Rabat’s contemporary Mausoleum of Mohammed V, make up a significant historical and touristic complex. Ramps are used to climb the tower rather than steps. The muezzin would have been able to call people to prayer by riding a horse up the ramps of the minaret.

Design Elements
The design of Hassan Tower integrates robust geometric structures and ornamental features typical of Almohad architecture. It stands on a square base, which is quite characteristic of Moroccan minarets. The tower’s silhouette is marked by distinct corner shafts, which would have supported the height it was meant to achieve. The façade is embellished with intricate patterns, including ornamental arches and columns that showcase the precision of Almohad craftsmanship.

Visitors today can observe the horseshoe arches, a defining attribute of Almohad style. These arches not only fulfill an aesthetic function but also demonstrate engineering acumen. The red sandstone used in construction gives the minaret a distinct color, which contributed to the visual impact it would have made within the cityscape. The incomplete structure of Hassan Tower stands at approximately half of its intended height, yet its elegance and attention to detail remain evident and admired.

National Monument Status
Declared a national monument, Hassan Tower’s role extends beyond religion. It has indeed become an integral part of the Moroccan identity, representing a historical era that shaped the civilization. The site also works in conjunction with the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, honoring Morocco’s past monarchs and strengthening national sentiment.

As you can tell from the pictures, the sun was low in the sky by this time. We went out for a lovely dinner and returned to Seahike, prepared to catch the train to Marrakech the next day.

October 3-4: Marrakech

The hotel we stayed at in Marrakech was beautifully decorated. I loved the titling bookshelves!

Our first visit (after the 3.5-hour train ride to Marrekech) was to Medersa Ben Youssef. Of course, we walked through narrow streets to get there. . .

Medersa Ben Youssef is a historic Islamic school located in the heart of Marrakech. Built in the 14th century, this madrasa was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The history of the school from an official website:

“The Ben Youssef Medersa, an architectural treasure nestled in the heart of the ancient Medina of Marrakech, resonates with the echo of a glorious past and embodies an invaluable historical significance. It transports visitors to a fascinating era where art, knowledge, and culture flourished. The Medersa was erected by Sultan Abdullah Al-Ghaleb Assaadi between the years 1564 and 1565 and remained for four centuries a bastion for scholars, a goal and a destination for students eager for knowledge in various disciplines, especially religious ones.

The Ben Youssef Medersa has been an intellectual hub in Morocco for centuries. Students from distant horizons converged on this prestigious institution to deepen their knowledge in religious sciences, philosophy, medicine, and mathematics.

Upon crossing the threshold, the architectural splendor of the Medersa enchants. Refined Zellige tiles with sumptuous geometric and floral motifs adorn the walls, bearing witness to the accomplished art of the time.

The intricately carved cedar wood doors and ceilings reveal artistic precision in every detail. The central courtyard, a masterpiece in its own right, captivates with its soothing serenity.

Bordered by galleries with elegant architecture, this meeting place was the vibrant heart of exchanges between students, teachers, and thinkers, fostering the sharing of knowledge and ideas. The student rooms, modest yet functional, evoke the humility of the apprentice-scholars of yesteryears. Arranged around the courtyard, these compact spaces provided students with an environment conducive to study and meditation. Beyond its architectural magnificence, the Ben Youssef Medersa embodies the cultural and religious history of Morocco. Witness to the intellectual fervor of its time, it attracted scholars and thinkers from the Muslim world. It was the cradle of eminent scholars whose contributions left a precious legacy in their respective fields.

Today, the Ben Youssef Medersa transcends the status of a historic monument. It becomes a source of pride and identity for the Moroccan people, celebrating a deeply rooted intellectual and spiritual heritage that continues to inspire generations by fostering intercultural dialogue and perpetuating the legacy of Arab-Muslim civilization.”

The architectural details are astounding. There are so many styles of doors, arches, windows, etc.

It was time to walk to one of the main squares in Marrakech. The snake charmers captured John’s and Michael’s attention. Then they drew me in, but only with the friendly snakes.

They are wild and crazy guys! And still alive. Whew! No, I did not hold a cobra.

More narrow streets with shops on the sides and vendors encouraging one to buy their goods.

Back to our hotel for the night then another half day in Marrakech on the 4th.

Our main objective was to visit the Bahia Palace and enjoy the walk in both directions, with an option to stop along the way if we spotted something of interest.

The Bahia Palace, meaning brilliance in Arabic, is perhaps one of the best-preserved historical sites in Marrakech. Built between 1866 and 1867 by Si Moussa, the Bahia palace is set over two acres in the middle of the Marrakech medina and features 150 rooms, including a harem section located just off the sun-filled Court of Honor.

Originally built for the personal use of Si Moussa, Grand Vizier of the Sultan, a former slave who climbed the ranks, the Bahia palace was soon after occupied by his son Bou Ahmed, his four wives and several concubines. It was during Bou Ahmed’s reign that the brilliance of the Bahia palace was really enhanced with the addition of lush gardens, the small riad surrounding private gardens and each of the rooms decorated in truly elegant Moroccan style.

Design and Artistry
The palace showcases a blend of Islamic and Moroccan architectural styles, featuring intricate marquetry, stunning zellij (tile work), and ornate ceilings. It includes several riads (traditional Moroccan houses with interior gardens) and a grand courtyard, which was used for entertaining distinguished guests.

Cultural Impact
Bahia Palace is not only a historic site but also a cultural symbol, representing the artistic and architectural prowess of Morocco. It continues to attract scholars, artists, and tourists who seek to understand the rich tapestry of Moroccan history and culture.

Restoration Efforts
The palace has undergone several restoration projects to preserve its original artistry and architecture. These efforts ensure that Bahia Palace remains a source of pride and historical significance for Morocco.

Today the palace’s private area is owned by the royal family and is used as a residence for foreign dignitaries arriving in Marrakech. Another part of the palace houses facilities of the Moroccan Ministry of Culture.

Back to walking the streets. . .

Pictured below is the Minaret de la Koutoubia.
The Koutoubia Mosque, which stands majestically in the landscape of Marrakech, is not only a religious shrine but also a symbol of Morocco’s rich Islamic heritage. Built in the 12th century, it represents a pinnacle of Almohad architectural ingenuity and spiritual significance.

The Koutoubia Mosque was commissioned by the Almohad caliph Abd al-Mu’min shortly after the conquest of Marrakech in 1147. However, the current structure was completed during the reign of his grandson, Yaqub al-Mansur, around 1199, after a complete reconstruction was necessary to correct the qibla alignment.

Renowned for its 77-metre-high minaret, which served as the model for Seville’s Giralda and Rabat’s Hassan Tower, the Koutoubia Mosque is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. Its design elements include a mix of sandstone blocks, traditional horseshoe arches, and a ribbed dome. The minaret, adorned with four copper globes, is an example of Moorish ornamentation, and its function extends beyond the spiritual, having also served as a lighthouse and watchtower.

The Koutoubia Mosque has played a central role in the religious life of Marrakech for centuries. It takes its name from the Arabic word ‘koutoubiyyin,’ meaning booksellers, reflecting the area’s history as a bustling marketplace for manuscript merchants. The mosque has been a gathering point for the community, and its vast courtyard can accommodate up to 20,000 worshipers.

Today, the Koutoubia Mosque continues to inspire with its beauty and scale, embodying centuries of Moroccan history and Islamic tradition. It remains a profound symbol of the city’s identity and its unbroken connection to its medieval past.

I am not sure what this guy is doing with this ball . . .

We were back in Rabat in time for dinner.