September 29 – 30, 2024 – Tangier, the Akchour Waterfalls and Chefchaouen

We sailed (I think we mostly motored) to Tangier on September 28th. It was only about 30 nm from Spain to Tangier, so a short day trip.

We passed baby sailboats on the way out of the marina in Spain. How cute!!

September 29: We spent our first day in Tangier and took a tour with a driver the next day. Here are some sights from Tangier.

The Tangier American Legation is a symbol of cultural exchange between the Kingdom of Morocco and the United States. The Legation’s presence in Tangier’s Medina attests to bilateral ties formed during the American Revolution and affirmed by the Treaty of Friendship (1786). Gifted to the U.S. in 1821, the Legation property was integral to the coalition forging the Cape Spartel Lighthouse Treaty, a precedent for the League of Nations, and again during WWII Operation Torch.

The U.S. diplomatic corps worked from the Legation for 140 years. The building’s additive construction mirrored the growth of the American delegation, bridging a narrow street and expanding around a courtyard of neo-Moorish design.

The Legation is the only U.S. National Historic Landmark in a foreign country. It is also recognized on the National Register of Historic Places (1981) and one of the first inscribed on the Secretary of State’s Register of Culturally Significant Property (2001).

The pictures on the left below are a reproduction of the best-known portrait of Sultan Mohammed Ben Abdulla. And, of course George Washington on the right.

After a life of travel and adventure, renowned Scottish artist James McBey settled in Tangier with his glamourous American wife Marguerite, and they became the center of the city’s Anglophone expatriate community. McBey’s portrait of Zohra, a young servant girl with an enigmatic gaze, is sometimes referred to as the “Moroccan Mona Lisa.”

Pictured on the right side below, are Ion Hanford Perdicaris and, perhaps, his wife (I am not sure). The plaque describing Mr. Perdicaris reads as follows:

“Why was Ion Perdicaris famous?
When a local warlord named Raisuli kidnapped wealthy Greek-American Ion Perdicaris from one of his two beautiful Tangier homes in 1904, the news went around the world. The American president sent warships to Tangier harbor and made his rescue part of his own re-election campaign by trumpeting the slogan ‘Perdicaris Alive or Raisuli Dead.’ Perdicaris became one of the 20th century’s first celebrities.”

But if you want to read an in-depth account of this, check out this article: https://www.americanheritage.com/perdicaris-alive-or-raisuli-dead

The (right below) painting of Tangier-born “Carmencita” that was commissioned by her parents after she died at 32. The artist is British painter George Apperley (1884-1960).

Our next visit was to a stunningly beautiful synagogue: Moshe Nahon Synagogue. The silver, used aplenty, was jaw-droppingly gorgeous! There was a gentleman in the synagogue who showed us around. Here’s some info about it:

The Nahon Synagogue or Massat Moche (Moses’ Gift) was built in 1878 by a banker from Tetouan, in memory of his deceased father. At that time Tangier had about 8,000 Jews and several synagogues including the Moussa Synagogue (also called the Flemish Synagogue because the faithful dressed in European style), the Rabbi Abraham Toledano Synagogue from the end of the 18th century, the Souiri Synagogue (Shriqui Delevante), the Laredo Synagogue or Rabbi Aquiva, and the Rabbi Mordejay Bengio Synagogue. The Nahon was frequented by the wealthy bourgeoisie. The chandeliers were gifts from families in memory of deceased family members.

In the cupboard are the Sefarim or Torah scrolls written on parchment. They are covered with velvet or brocade robes and very often embroidered by hand.

Weddings, bar mitzvahs and circumcisions were celebrated here.

On holidays such as Yom Kippur or Rosh Hashana the men wore top hats and the ladies wore beautiful hats which often came from Mme Boissonnet.

Next, we walked to the Phoenician Tombs or Roman Punic Necropolis.

Established by the Phoenicians somewhere between 800 BC to 1000 BC, Modern-day Tangier lacks any mounting evidence of its ancient past. Nevertheless, a series of empty tombs atop a seaside cliff (with fabulous views!) stand out as one of the city’s sole vestiges of its first days as a Phoenician colony. While most of the Punic relics were either looted and destroyed by their successors or succumbed to the elements, dozens of Phoenician Tombs atop a sea facing bluff managed to survive against all odds centuries of brutal forces.

The necropolis is home to 98 graves, almost all (supposedly 50) of which are carved out of the cliff’s rocky surface. Originally dug by the Phoenicians, each of the 3,000-year-old tombs measures around 70 centimeters in depth, 1.80 meters in length and 60 centimeters in width.

Whereas nowadays, the graves are roughly 500 meters from the Tangier’s fortified old town, in ancient times, the necropolis was adjacent to the city’s main gates, marking its boundaries. Following the conquest of the region by the Romans, the necropolis was plundered and nearly all of its content was removed to make place for new burial grounds.

Views from the necropolis:

The Ibn Battouta Museum was next on our agenda. It is an interactive museum with lots of videos so I only took two pictures. (I wish I’d taken more.) I had never heard of this person, but I was exceedingly impressed with him partway through the museum. Here are a few descriptions of the museum and Ibn Battouta:

The Ibn Battouta Travel Museum stands as both a tribute to its namesake’s extraordinary life journey and a testament to the power of exploration and knowledge. Through its immersive exhibits, it invites visitors to walk in the footsteps of a trailblazer, inspiring us to embrace the spirit of curiosity and discovery that defined Ibn Battouta’s legacy. So join us on this captivating historical adventure as we uncover the fascinating world of Ibn Battouta and his enduring impact on our understanding of cultures, history, and humanity itself.

One cannot miss the highlight of the museum – Ibn Battouta’s travel diaries. These beautifully preserved journals document his incredible journeys across Africa, Asia, and Europe during the 14th century. As you read his vivid accounts, you will be transported to bustling markets, majestic palaces, and breathtaking landscapes that he encountered along his travels.

Notable destinations dotted Battuta’s travels, each leaving an indelible mark on his adventurous spirit. In Egypt, he marveled at the pyramids of Giza and explored the magnificent city of Alexandria. In Persia (modern-day Iran), he visited Isfahan with its breathtaking architecture and bustling bazaars. And it was in India where he encountered awe-inspiring structures such as Delhi’s Qutub Minar and Agra’s iconic Taj Mahal.

But perhaps Ibn Battuta’s most profound impact lies in his contribution to world geography. Through meticulous observations and detailed recordings, he created one of history’s most comprehensive travelogues – “Rihla.” This invaluable account not only provides us with invaluable insights into medieval societies but also serves as a vital resource for understanding geographical knowledge during that era.

It is through Battuta’s journeys that we gain a deeper appreciation for our interconnected world. His exploration routes helped connect civilizations by revealing trade routes previously unknown to many. His records shed light on distant lands and their peoples’ customs, ultimately enriching our collective understanding of human history.

In conclusion, Ibn Battuta’s early life, exploration routes, notable destinations, and impact on world geography are all testaments to his remarkable legacy. His adventures inspire us to push the boundaries of our own curiosity and embrace the unknown. As we delve into his incredible story, we realize that he was not just a traveler but also a pioneer who forever changed our perception of the world.

Okay, here are my two measly pictures. But you’ve got to admit that the one on the left is a very cool saddle!

Cannon Armstrong

This is one of the Armstrong cannons installed by Sultan Moulay El Hassan I to protect the northern part of the city. These cannons were imported from Gibraltar around 1879; they were used by a team of artillerymen trained by an Englishman, the “Qaid Silva.” These cannons were bought at 25,000 piastres for each piece.

This cannon, weighing about 20 tons on a 13-ton carriage, moves on semi-circular traverses. It has a caliber of 10 inches and a range of 6050 meters. It was manufactured around 1879 by WG Armstrong and Company. This model fires projectiles of 400 pounds (181 kg). This type of cannon required a crew of 14 men; loading took about two minutes. The main projectile of the cannon was the shot or “Palliser” shell, a primary armor-piercing projectile designed to attack armored warships.

It was time for a late lunch. We had an authentic Moroccan meal at this restaurant, which appeared to be family owned and run.

We spent some more time walking around the town before heading back to Seahike.

This guy is roasting nuts in an oven (the oven is behind him). And it was a hot day! Tough work!

Views on the other side of the gate:

September 30: The Akchour Waterfalls and The Blue City of Chefchaouen

I have a lot of pictures and very little text. So, enjoy the picture show! We’ll start with the trail to the waterfall. To be truthful, we didn’t take the four-hour trail that led to the waterfall. (Our guide seemed a tad confused about what trail to take, where it went and how long it took, but it all worked out.) We took a trail that we thoroughly enjoyed that followed/crossed a river that meandered through the valley! There were tables and chairs at points along the way and people cooking and making tea.

I included the picture below to show you how huge this is.

We had been hiking for about two hours and this seemed to be a good place to turn around. So we did.

Going back the way we came:

Our guide now took us to The Blue City of Chefchaouen. The road to the city was winding and the views were nice. The city, nestled at the bottom of the hill, was very blue!

Kasbah in the Blue City
The original settlement consisted of just a small fortress, now referred to as Chefchaouen’s Kasbah. The fortress was erected to help defend the area from potential attacks by Portuguese invaders; at the time, Portugal was launching attacks against northern cities and towns in Morocco. There isn’t much to see inside. Several gates were locked.